A route-shaped magazine of places, camp kitchens, swims, detours and the unglamorous details that make the trip real.
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After weeks of mostly travelling as a couple, David and Paula were waiting for us in the Amalia Gorge car park, and the Gibb suddenly became something we would share: a swim under a waterfall, a deep crossing before sunset, a caravan dinner, a switch to swags, the Pentecost River and a big campfire at Ellenbrae.
We turned west from Katherine toward the Kimberley: changing landscapes, a worrying car noise that turned out to be nothing, the WA quarantine checkpoint, too many oranges, and a sunset cruise on Lake Argyle among freshwater crocodiles.
Katherine was the last stop before permits took over: two long dirt-road days to Rainbow Cliffs, football and turtle tracks on the coast, a mining town in Nhulunbuy, a wind-battered camp at Macassan Beach, a quiet stop at Giddy River and a smoky drive back to Katherine.
Between Lawn Hill and the road into East Arnhem Land, the days ran through sealed highways, warm thermal springs at Mataranka, three nights at a caravan park in Katherine, a big shop, laundry, planning and one small detergent failure.
From Einasleigh and Cobbold Gorge to Karumba, Leichhardt Falls, Burketown and Lawn Hill, the trip shifted into long roads, small settlements and the daily judgement calls of travelling through remote country.
After six nights in Palm Cove, we packed Roger again and climbed into the Tablelands. Kuranda was stranger than expected, Emerald Escape brought us back to bush camping, and a patient evening beside the river finally delivered three platypuses.
After the long road south from Cape York, Wonga Beach gave us cooler nights and coffee beside the ocean. Mossman Gorge brought us abruptly back into tourist crowds, before six nights in Palm Cove let us cook, run, work on the blog and briefly get used to not packing camp every morning.
After the careful track out from Elliot Falls we crossed the Jardine River, camped at windy Somerset, had the northernmost point almost to ourselves, then sat through the heat at Punsand Bay before turning south again.
This was the real start of the Cape York adventure: red dirt, tyre pressure decisions, washouts, handheld radios, a very quiet Elliot Falls campground and the decision to keep Roger away from the more extreme Old Telegraph Track crossings.
After Magnetic Island we left Townsville with fresh supplies, stopped at the Big Mango Man, postponed the Atherton Tablelands because of rain, cooled down at Babinda Boulders, skipped Cairns and drove north into the rainforest rhythm of Mossman and Cooktown.
After Byfield we moved into a lighter stretch of central Queensland: Smalleys Beach, fishing progress, a surprise night in Bowen, Magnetic Island walks, a singing bus driver and pizza in Townsville.
From Bundaberg to Wreck Rock, 1770, Rockhampton, Yeppoon and Byfield, this stretch brought our first fish, a fixed tyre valve, smoky city night, Big Sandy and a wet, noisy finish at The Leap.
Teewah Beach was meant to be a few days of beach camping, fishing and ocean views. In the end it became one windy night, followed by a practical run through Rainbow Beach, Maryborough, Hervey Bay and Burrum Heads.
After the Glass House Mountains we moved back to the coast, had one unexpectedly serious moment in the surf, paddled the still water of the Noosa Everglades, and used a Noosaville apartment to reset, restock and prepare for beach camping.
After saying goodbye to Becky and Craig, we headed north on our own again through Wollomombi, Red Cliff, Black Rocks, Lennox, Byron, the Gold Coast and Beerwah, with possums, kangaroos in the lagoon, long paddles, laundry stops and the first real feeling of coastal rhythm.
Next we left the ocean and travelled inland: a suspension check in Wollongong, expensive diesel near Penrith, kangaroos at Glen Davis, wine in Mudgee, Easter shopping challenges, a fire closure in the Warrumbungles and an unexpected German lunch in the Pilliga.
Our first days on the road were not dramatic, but they taught us quickly: moving day took longer than expected, fog made the first drive harder, and the camp setup came with early lessons about water, gas and campsite numbers.
