A route-shaped magazine of places, camp kitchens, swims, detours and the unglamorous details that make the trip real.
All chapters
9 published
This was the real start of the Cape York adventure: red dirt, tyre pressure decisions, washouts, handheld radios, a very quiet Elliot Falls campground and the decision to keep Roger away from the more extreme Old Telegraph Track crossings.
After Magnetic Island we left Townsville with fresh supplies, stopped at the Big Mango Man, postponed the Atherton Tablelands because of rain, cooled down at Babinda Boulders, skipped Cairns and drove north into the rainforest rhythm of Mossman and Cooktown.
After Byfield we moved into a lighter stretch of central Queensland: Smalleys Beach, fishing progress, a surprise night in Bowen, Magnetic Island walks, a singing bus driver and pizza in Townsville.
From Bundaberg to Wreck Rock, 1770, Rockhampton, Yeppoon and Byfield, this stretch brought our first fish, a fixed tyre valve, smoky city night, Big Sandy and a wet, noisy finish at The Leap.
Teewah Beach was meant to be a few days of beach camping, fishing and ocean views. In the end it became one windy night, followed by a practical run through Rainbow Beach, Maryborough, Hervey Bay and Burrum Heads.
After the Glass House Mountains we moved back to the coast, had one unexpectedly serious moment in the surf, paddled the still water of the Noosa Everglades, and used a Noosaville apartment to reset, restock and prepare for beach camping.
After saying goodbye to Becky and Craig, we headed north on our own again through Wollomombi, Red Cliff, Black Rocks, Lennox, Byron, the Gold Coast and Beerwah, with possums, kangaroos in the lagoon, long paddles, laundry stops and the first real feeling of coastal rhythm.
Next we left the ocean and travelled inland: a suspension check in Wollongong, expensive diesel near Penrith, kangaroos at Glen Davis, wine in Mudgee, Easter shopping challenges, a fire closure in the Warrumbungles and an unexpected German lunch in the Pilliga.
Our first days on the road were not dramatic, but they taught us quickly: moving day took longer than expected, fog made the first drive harder, and the camp setup came with early lessons about water, gas and campsite numbers.
